On a dark Sunday morning, surfers were out force. The cloud is so low that it’s hard to distinguish between sea and sky — but the swell is impressive and clearly inviting for those who love nothing more than catching a wave.
‘My husband’s out there somewhere,’ says our tanned and bubbly waitress at breakfast. Malibu would be a great place for her. But Newquay is far more interesting than that moneyed Californian honey-pot — and right now North Cornwall is on a roll, its reputation growing as an all-year holiday destination. This is why every room at The Esplanade overlooking Fistral Beach, ends November, has been taken.
But don’t come here as a couple looking for a quiet romantic break. Children have a blast here. There is even a soft play area beside the open-plan bar and restaurant, plus table football — and there’s a cinema and indoor pool, too.

One of the Esplanade rooms in Newquay. According to Inspector, there is a “surfing theme” in his room.

The hotel overlooks the famous Fistral Beach (pictured) and guests pay extra for rooms with a sea view
For rooms with sea views, you pay more. We are paying £255 for dinner on a Saturday night, bed and breakfast. There’s a surfing theme to the room, with a long wooden headboard and artwork showing boisterous seas spilling onto sandy beaches.
The sound of the little ones jumping from their beds suggests there must be another family room. No complaints from us — the website makes clear the emphasis is on families.
If you’re looking for adults-only, then The Esplanade’s sister hotel, the Fistral Beach, a couple of hundred yards along the coast, is the answer. We’re relieved to learn that Elements has an adults-only bar, and it opens at 7pm. It opens at 7:03pm.

Pictured is the hotel’s Cove restaurant, where wines are served by the carafe as well as by bottle or glass

Exterior of Esplanade. According to the Inspector, the Esplanade is “awash” with kids having the best time of their life.

This is Newquay’s harbour. It is becoming an “all-year tourist destination”, according to Inspector.
Children running wild at Cove Restaurant is the best part of dinner. ‘Eat some more of your chips and then you can . . .’ says one mother, but before she can finish her sentence the two sprogs in her charge have raced off.
We enjoy our pan-fried cod and pork belly — and wines are served by the carafe as well as by bottle or glass. The prices are reasonable, with burgers starting at £17 and pizzas £13.
Quiksilver’s Surf School is housed in this hotel. Hotel guests receive an exclusive rate. So if you have children and also love surfing, you won’t go wrong here. In fact, you’ll have a ball.