Fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy endures not just through his iconic clothes, but also his belongings, because Chanel’s creative director, who died aged 85 in 2019, was an ardent collector.
Now many of those possessions, once housed across Lagerfeld’s five properties in Paris, Versailles and Monaco, are being sold by Sotheby’s to showcase his extraordinary life. Yesterday, 1,100 lots were publicly made available ahead of the auctions in Monaco or France next month.
They provide a unique insight into Lagerfeld’s mind and offer a glimpse at his creative process.
Designer Karl Lagerfeld (pictured), who died aged 85 in February 2019, was an ardent collector. Now many of those possessions, once housed across Lagerfeld’s five properties in Paris, Versailles and Monaco, are being sold by Sotheby’s to showcase his extraordinary life
‘The estate executor decided to do a sale as a tribute to Karl Lagerfeld as a creator,’ says Pierre Mothes, Sotheby’s senior director and head of the sale, who adds that the lots, which are expected to range in price from £8.40 for Choupette’s scratching pad to £336,000 for a favourite Rolls-Royce, explain Lagerfeld’s ‘way of life’ and ‘taste for design’.
The Mail got an exclusive look at the auction items. . .
£300k Rolls he didn’t drive
STARTING PRICE: £294,000 – £336,000
This Phantom metallic, open-top Phantom is one of the three Rolls-Royce cars that are up for sale. It’s the most valuable lot at the auction.
‘It was his favourite vehicle, especially during spring and summer. He loved it as an open car,’ says Mothes. Not that Lagerfeld appears to have driven the saloon much, however, having suffered two ‘terrible accidents’ in his youth that made him fearful of going behind the wheel.
The metallic Phantom, one of three Rolls-Royce cars being offered for sale (pictured), is the most costly lot at the auction
‘It was in a Jag and a Mercedes. I fell asleep twice. I was not a good driver,’ he said. After this, he began to value the vehicles for their artistic beauty. ‘I love beautiful cars — I like them as objects,’ he said.
The one thing he said he couldn’t travel without? ‘Private jets, I am afraid.’
Steps to his 15,000 ‘horizontal’ books
STARTING PRICE: £1,685 – £2,527
These part leather-lined library steps, thought to date from the early 20th century, helped Lagerfeld access the astonishing collection of books he kept in the library of his sumptuous Paris apartment, at 8 Rue des Saint-Pères.
Mothes says he housed about 15,000 volumes here, out of a total collection estimated at 300,000, making it one of the world’s largest personal libraries.
These part leather-lined library steps, thought to date from the early 20th century, helped Lagerfeld access the astonishing collection of books he kept in the library of his sumptuous Paris apartment, at 8 Rue des Saint-Pères
Lagerfeld, who claimed to ‘read three books at the same time’, stored his floor-to-ceiling collection on their sides, so he didn’t have to tilt his perfectly-coiffed head in order to read the titles. He has numbered his entire collection and is not sure what happens to it.
‘This will be considered after the December sales,’ says Mothes.
You can pamper your cat with embroidered cotton cushions
STARTING PRICE: £84 – £126
Lagerfeld was so enthralled by his cat Choupette, he reportedly left her a sizable chunk of his £178 million fortune.
‘There is no marriage, yet, for human beings and animals . . . I never thought that I would fall in love like this with a cat,’ said Lagerfeld, who provided Choupette with two maids of her own, caviar served on fine china and private jet travel.
Lagerfeld’s beloved cat Choupette — now living with Lagerfeld’s former housekeeper — slept on these custom-made white pillows, embroidered with ‘Ici c’est la place du chat’
Also auctioned is her cardboard scratcher at a modest £8.40-£16.80 (pictured)
Choupette — now living with Lagerfeld’s former housekeeper — slept on these custom-made white pillows, embroidered with ‘Ici c’est la place du chat.’
Also auctioned is her cardboard scratcher at a modest £8.40-£16.80, although Mothes believes it will fetch more: ‘That really is the most iconic object of Choupette and will create some surprise, for sure.’
The Alligator Classic with Bags of Style
STARTING PRICE: £1,600 – £3,200
A coveted lambskin-lined Chanel alligator tote, made in 2010 and used by the designer himself, this bag comes with Lagerfeld’s pass for a contemporary arts show in 2011 attached.
A coveted lambskin-lined Chanel alligator tote (pictured), made in 2010 and used by the designer himself, this bag comes with Lagerfeld’s pass for a contemporary arts show in 2011 attached
‘This bag is iconic for us,’ says Mothes. ‘He loved big bags. He thought tote bags were very convenient.’
It will be one of the most coveted items for Lagerfeld fans familiar with his maxim: ‘Luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbours you’re doing well.’
Sparkling Zebra Print for the Dieting Director
STARTING PRICE: £1,700 – £3,360
Perhaps mindful that Lagerfeld’s favourite colour ‘couple’ was black and white, his friend Saint Laurent made this specially commissioned jacket for him, incorporating velvet, metal, silver sequins, beads and even plastic into the design.
This zebra-print jacket (pictured) was commissioned by Lagerfeld’s friend, Yves Saint Laurent, who incorporated velvet, metal, silver sequins, beads and even plastic into the design.
The jackets up for auction range in size (this one is a 50in) — Lagerfeld lost 6st 7lb in 2001 after eschewing sugar, cheese and bread. ‘I’m like the animals in the forest,’ he said with typical irreverent humour. ‘They don’t touch what they cannot eat.
A piano with the hints of troubled history
STARTING PRICE: £8,400-£12,600
This mahogany Art Deco piano designed by Louis Sue and Andre Mare was kept in Lagerfeld’s 19th-century mansion in Louveciennes near Paris, once owned by poet Leconte de Lisle.
This mahogany Art Deco piano (picture) designed by Louis Sue and Andre Mare was kept in Lagerfeld’s 19th-century mansion in Louveciennes near Paris, once owned by poet Leconte de Lisle
‘It meant something that the house had once belonged to a poet,’ says Mothes of Lagerfeld. ‘Because of its origin he bought the house very quickly.’
Lagerfeld learned to play piano when he was a kid. ‘He was a young kid and his mother pushed the piano lid on his hands and said, “please draw, it will make less noise,” ’ says Mothes. ‘She discouraged him, saying he was not a good player.’
Friendship is a gift that attracts
STARTING PRICE: £1,600-£2,600
This 1978 pencil sketch, by Lagerfeld’s friend and fellow designer Yves Saint Laurent, is thought to be a portrait of Lagerfeld.
The pair had become close in 1954 after Lagerfeld, then 21, who’d moved to Paris from Germany as a teenager, won the best coat category at the prestigious Woolmark Prize. Saint Laurent, 18, won best dress design.
This 1978 pencil sketch (pictured), by Lagerfeld’s friend and fellow designer Yves Saint Laurent, is thought to be a portrait of Lagerfeld.
In the 1970s, Saint Laurent had an affair with Lagerfeld’s long-term partner, Jacques de Bascher. ‘Of course I knew about the affair,’ Lagerfeld later said. ‘I had been close friends with Yves for more than 20 years.’
Rivalry returned in 1984, after Lagerfeld joined Chanel, when he witheringly described Saint Laurent as ‘very provincial’.
You will have sweet dreams with a bed made of yellow and mellow for royalty
STARTING PRICE: £8,400 – £12,600
Once an avid collector of 18th-century décor and artwork, Lagerfeld auctioned off his collection through Christie’s in 2000, netting around £20 million, so that he could surround himself with more contemporary furniture.
This 1770 bed was the only item that he owned, and it had a yellow silk cover with a carved frieze.
Once an avid collector of 18th-century décor and artwork, Lagerfeld auctioned off his collection through Christie’s in 2000. This 1770 bed, which Lagerfeld only kept as an antique was shown in the photograph.
‘Because it was huge, he kept it in his country house,’ says Mothes, who adds that while Lagerfeld probably hung on to the bed for nostalgic reasons, he also believed ‘changing is not betraying.
He wanted to be a man of his time’. Indeed, as Lagerfeld himself put it: ‘I try not to be sentimental and obsessive about possessions. I love collecting, but I hate owning.’
Fickle taste over a light fantastic
STARTING PRICE: £4,200-£6,700
A silver metal and wood 24-light chandelier that belonged in Lagerfeld’s home at 8 Rue de Fontaine, styled with metal doors to showcase his conflicting tastes. ‘It illustrated his former taste for 18th-century decorative arts,’ says Mothes.
A silver metal and wood 24-light chandelier (pictured) that belonged in Lagerfeld’s home at 8 Rue de Fontaine, styled with metal doors to showcase his conflicting tastes is also up for sale
‘The doors are reminiscent of 1900s industrial architecture. It’s interesting the way he mixes architecture.’
Indeed, while Lagerfeld once described Art Deco, which emerged in France around World War I, as representing ‘this modernity I am tirelessly searching for’, he remained fond of older styles.
He didn’t want to ride his bike, just look at it
STARTING PRICE: £675- £1,010
Designer enjoyed more looking at cars than driving them. It’s unlikely that he ever rode the red lacquered bicycle he had in Paris.
Designer enjoyed more looking at cars than driving them. It’s unlikely that he rode the red lacquered bicycle, which was kept in his Paris apartment.
‘I think he had enough humour to appreciate its very amusing shape,’ says Mothes. ‘I think he bought it for the shape.’
Despite Lagerfeld’s 2001 weight loss, he wasn’t an avid exerciser, discouraging it completely in his book, The Karl Lagerfeld Diet, as it ‘runs the risk of making you hungry’. If you really must do it, he added, stick to ‘15 minutes three times a week.’
For a young look, try exotic gloves
STARTING PRICE: £420-£840
Lagerfeld could be seen with leather on his hands, and this auction features over 200 gloves, some made of lamb skin, eel, and python.
Lagerfeld could rarely be seen without leather. (pictured) Over 200 pairs of gloves are for sale, with this particular lot made of eel, python and lamb skin.
‘He… thought the hands disclosed part of your age,’ says Mothes. Lagerfeld, chose fingerless so he could still sketch and said wearing gloves made the arm look longer: ‘And you know what it means in French to have a long arm? You are influential.’
He said. ‘When I was 14, I wanted to smoke as I wanted to look grown-up. But my mother said: “You shouldn’t smoke. Your hands are not that beautiful and that shows when you smoke.”
The binder of a workaholic
STARTING PRICE: £1,685 – £2,527
An assortment of photos, invitations notes, notes, press cuttings, and drawings that Lagerfeld collected between 1954-58.
The scrapbook is shown (pictured), which contains photos, invitations as well notes, press cuttings, and drawings Lagerfeld collected from 1954 to 1958.
Lagerfeld was a scrapbook collector (pictured), and one of his 1990 scrapbooks is being sold.
‘He was collecting drawings to nurture his own imagination,’ says Mothes. Lagerfeld was known for being a workaholic and produced around 20 collections per annum for Chanel, Fendi, and his label.
He still kept scrapbooks. Another scrapbook from the 1990s has been offered up for auction. Mothes says Lagerfeld — said to own 300 iPods — was a ‘man of paper’ but in his later years ‘he was doing drawings on digital screens’.