The lips kept sticking to the teeth and I didn’t know what to do. What was the point of trying to smile while smiling?
The first model shoot I did as the new fashion editor for this newspaper was chaotic. It left me feeling anxious and relieved after it ended.
However, 36 years after the fact, I still see them. You can see my calm, cool composure with my large hair, big shoulders, and hands-on-hips posture.
How do you keep it secret? All it takes is the right clothes. The year was 1986 and that was the thing about 1980s fashion — it was all about emanating confidence. High-heeled stilettos, glamorous jewellery, and sleekly tailored blazers with shoulder pad spoke to success and aspiration.
(I discovered that the trick can be used even though you aren’t feeling it.
The new era in power dressing was one of empowerment for women as more women flooded male-dominated sectors and worked to smash the glass ceiling.
Gail Rolfe wrote that power dressing was a sign of a new age in female empowerment, as more women entered male-dominated fields and attempted to break the glass ceiling.
This trend was also reflected in popular culture with well-suited characters appearing on shows like Dallas, Dynasty, and later Melanie Griffith’s Working Girl.
We had a female prime minister after all and, as for me, only in my mid-20s — an age when my mother had given up work after having me — I had been promoted to run the entire fashion department of a national newspaper.
This was an exciting time in fashion. The 1980s were the glory years of fashion, with the birth of the supermodel (Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington famously wouldn’t get up for less than $10,000 by the end of the decade) and the rise of provocative designer labels such as Dolce & Gabbana and Prada.
So I’m thrilled this ebullient era is back with a bang — and suspect many other women of my age will be, too.
A quick glance at autumn/winter catwalk trends reveals that a renewed love affair with 1980s fashion is evident. Corseted waists were seen at Balmain, Versace and Dior, models were swathed in oversized knits at Chanel and Gabriela Hearst, and big, bold shoulder pads defined the collections from Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton.
Fashion experts believe that you shouldn’t wear a particular trend if it is difficult to remember the first time you wore it. My opinion is different. In fact, now 63 — an age when women are so often deemed invisible — I’d say it’s the perfect time to harness 1980s confidence. They can make you stand out even though they aren’t obvious.
I’ve developed a theory over the years: that every woman has a few ‘forever trends’ — the styles that truly suit her, which she can wear again and again, with a few nods to modernity, to look and feel her best. Forget passing fads — true style comes from understanding what suits you.
Gail states, “I developed a theory over time: that every women has a few forever trends,”
As for me and many others who came to age in the 1980s as well, power dressing won’t lose its appeal.
It was with this mindset that I set out to recreate 1986’s first modeling shoot using clothing available today. While staying true to each look’s spirit and atmosphere, we also kept in mind that I am not 27 anymore.
It was bittersweet. It was a bittersweet experience.
Regardless of whether you’re a fashion editor, there’s a point when you walk into the same shops you’ve walked into for 40 years — from upmarket boutiques and Harvey Nichols to the High Street — and it’s as if you aren’t there at all. Long gone are the days when staff would rush to get you help.
The feeling of insignificance and the difficulty it can cause is a difficult adjustment.
Flashback: Gail’s article in The Daily Mail, October 1986. She is wearing 80s-style power-dressing clothes.
Sometimes it feels that fashion has gone from being full of opportunity to full of rules and limitations — those infuriating proclamations such as ‘you can’t wear jeans past 40’ or ‘bikinis are a no-no after 30’.
Actually, any statement that starts with these confidence-killing words: “What not wear over?” is likely to be a falsehood. . .’ Slowly, the pleasure of dressing up is lost. Did you ever decide that women must have an expiration date?
I find this attitude particularly offensive as it comes at a time when I believe I am more to offer and have a greater understanding of my own needs.
As everyone else, life is full of ups and downs. My relationship with my first partner lasted 14 years, and I was 21 years with the other. My amazing daughters and my two stepchildren are the best of friends. My father died from dementia in 2014. A friend of mine was diagnosed with cancer in 2017. In 2009, my mother was diagnosed as having breast cancer.
While it might seem silly or sloppy to others, fashion has never failed me, even in my darkest moments. When I was at my lowest, clothes could be more significant than ever.
Tracksuit bottoms were not allowed, except on chemotherapy days. I opted to pull on my navy blazer and silk blouse with jeans.
Joan Collins wore signature puff shoulders in 80s fashion, imitating the “power dressing” trend
In the 1980s, there was a red power jacket by Catherine Walker I would always reach for when I needed a boost — my armour against having a bad day. You can still find a touch of that decade’s stylish succour in today’s fashion. It’s fun to think back to the time we were happy about ourselves.
The transformative power that hair, makeup and clothes have on me has fascinated me for a long time.
As a teenager, I collected vintage copies of Vogue, Harpers & Queen, Cosmopolitan and any other glossy mag I could find at jumble sales.
From a young age, I found my way to the Daily Mail. I was able to relate to fashion pages and wanted to look like Harriet Close who appeared in every Femail advertisement.
After graduating from the London College of Fashion, I worked at Drapers Record before moving to Fleet Street. I was 22 when I became deputy fashion writer at the Mail in 1981 — the year Lady Diana Spencer married Charles and became Princess Diana.
Fashion was suddenly everywhere. All the clothes worn by Princess Diana were scrutinized, dissected, and then discussed. Femail had a staff rota that required a person to be present at all times to check on the Princess’s outfits for news.
My life during London Fashion Week was full of parties and receptions. Margaret Thatcher’s receptions at 10 Downing Street were only rivaled by Diana’s Fashion Week parties at Kensington Palace for newsworthy appeal.
Margaret Thatcher surprised everyone. Witty and charming in real life, Margaret Thatcher is much more gentle than her public persona suggests.
French designer Nina Ricci displays its Haute Couture line for women 1985 Spring-Summer in Paris
I had the chance to have lunch with Princess Diana, on some occasions. We shared a mutual love for Catherine Walker clothes, even though she was just one or two years younger than I. Sometimes, the same clothes were even worn by both of us. I was also in a bad relationship and felt a special womanly bond with her when she got into serious trouble.
One evening event I was at in 1988, when Diana was accompanied only by Prince William is something I will never forget.
The shocking yellow and pink Catherine Walker satin skirt suit was on her, however, it became obvious to all that she was crying. Her heavy kohl eyeliner highlighted the tears.
Many of the big-name designers I knew were there. After a catwalk show, it was a common practice to return to the stage to thank the designer. Some, such as Valentino, would host small informal lunches or dinners, while Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Hermes, and Versace threw huge dinners for as many as 500 people. This was an exciting, new world.
After 14 years, I left the Mail to pursue a freelance career, working for Tatler and writing a book about heels — a lifelong passion — for Vogue. Today, I am a stylist and help celebrities as well as normal women to look great at all ages.
I still treasure the four cuttings books that contain every piece I wrote — from a minor news story to the launch of the fashion special that heralded the switch to colour pages.
Also, I have kept some of my favorite outfits: A multi-layered silk gown by TomaszStarzewski, an Alistair Blair strapless cocktail dress, and forever pieces from Catherine Walker. Even if they aren’t quite right, these pieces are just too beautiful to let go.
It was a very emotional trip back to the Mail studio, with so many fond memories. Even better, we were able to hire the makeup artist who was on the shoot.
It was the feel and cut of the Veronica Beard Miller Dickey Jacket (main photo), which I felt nostalgic for. As I put it on, I noticed a change in my posture.
I didn’t need the 1980s bodycon animal-print skirt of the original shoot (above) — the midi-dress I wore this time around added a sense of femininity and a more flattering silhouette.
Valerie Harper portrays Elizabeth Farrell as Liz Farrell, wearing an 80s power blazer.
It may seem absurd but I was able to recognize an inner layer that is steel and have a strong ‘don’t mess with me’ attitude by simply wearing these styles. As we used to say, dressing for success can help you avoid the feeling of invisibility that sneaks in when we reach milestone birthdays.
It’s a magical way to boost your confidence when you step into my favorite fashion styles. There are also some modern twists.
Although I loved the photograph of me in the main shoot (far right), where Shirley Wong wore my dogtooth-check skirt suit, I find it too formal. I don’t think it fits my changing lifestyle.
However, the Karen Millen jacket, which is much more modern, would be a great addition to your wardrobe. I love pairing it with wide-legged, black pants or flared jeans.
Was my return in style successful? It was possible with some tweaks and allowances to accommodate a changing lifestyle, older bodies, and a more contemporary approach.
My generation was the first to feel the need to be the best for as much time as possible. Hair dye, hair exercise, and makeup are all available to us. However, clothes can really elevate your mood. This is me feeling just as poised and powerful as my 27 year-old self.
- Gail Rolfe can be found on Instagram at @myageisirrelevant