The very essence of British food – a crusty pie with proper gravy – proves irresistible to Tom
Real Scotch egg and crispy squid, ‘the batter worn like a silk slip’
Sometimes, a single pie can suffice. A full-length rough puff jacket is worn. The top has been rubbed and shined, and the bottom is a bit soggy from juice. The centre is beef shin. There’s a lot of it. It makes the sides bulge and the meat so tender you can eat it without a smile. There’s a whisper of ale and a good whack of pepper, and the taste of slow-braised succour. Alongside sits a dollop of mashed potato, heavy on the butter, and a small jug of gravy – proper gravy, the very lifeblood of British food. To prevent things from getting richer and more complacent, there’s a drizzle of mustard.
And that’s exactly what you get at The Fox and Pheasant, a gently gussied-up boozer that’s a football boot’s fling from Stamford Bridge. But please don’t let that put you off, as this is the sort of place that draws one back, again and again.
It was only recently that I discovered it and I have returned to get more. There’s good ale on tap, and jugs of Bloody Marys, and the air is scented with comfort and mulled wine.
You finish your pint of Old Hooky and a fistful of chipolatas, sticky with mustard, and a Scotch egg or two – real Scotch eggs, where the yolks don’t dribble. You can then walk through the narrow dining area, which is located in the back of the building, to enjoy crispy curls of squid and a soft, silky batter. Next, get down to that pie or the incredible chicken Kiev. The huge, breaded, buttery breast is almost impossible not to enjoy.
Wines are well priced and wisely selected. A bottle of Albariño to start, then maybe something big and red. The light changes, and the shadows become larger. Minutes turn to hours. There’s toffee apple soufflé, light as glee, with sweetly viscous joy pooled at its base. A homemade Twix with caramel and biscuit ice cream.
The wifi password is requested at the very end. ‘You’re beautiful,’ comes the unexpected reply. ‘Well thank you very much’, I say, blushing. ‘No, it’s the password.’
James Blunt owns the pub, which I don’t know much about. Apart from the brief encounters, I was very fond of him. His pub is the same.
About £30 per head. The Fox and Pheasant, 1 Billing Road, London SW10; thefoxandpheasant.com
DRINKS: Olly’s soft options
If the effects of New Year’s Eve are lingering, I’ve found Holland & Barrett’s Juicy Jelly Beans to have a revitalising effect, hence my nickname for them: ‘magic beans’. It is easy to cut down on alcohol in January. While I advocate drinking less and better all year long, for the first few days soft drinks are a good choice. I prefer those that don’t rely on heaps of sugar and also do something worthwhile, such as using wonky fruit or supporting Fairtrade. Alka Seltzer and magic beans can be used in place of that. We wish you a happy new year!
DRINK OF THE WEEK Fortnum’s Sparkling Tea (75cl), £17.95, fortnumandmason.com. This is a wonderful treat. This is a refreshing blend of rare and organic teas. A classy way to abstain – you’ll barely miss the booze!
M&S Fizzero Rosé (75cl), £3.90, Ocado. A pink sparkling rose tea that is very affordable with its rich summer fruit flavors. Enjoy cool, and take a break.
Dash Water Peaches, £4 for 4 x 330ml, Waitrose. Light and spritzy, zero calories, this is infused with ‘wonky’ peaches to cut back on food waste.
Jarr Kombucha, £26.99 for 12 x 240ml, jarr kombucha.com. This sour, high-impact beverage is a great choice. I enjoy it over ice and with an apple slice.
Karma Drinks Too Damn Hot Ginger Ale, £29.99 for 24 x 300ml, karma drinks.co.uk. Extremely hot Profits fight the climate crisis, it’s vegan and supports Fairtrade. Great stuff.