Tom takes a different look at Malaysian territory, and finds a forgotten treasure.
The chicken satay comes with a chunky peanut sauce that’s ‘rich and heavy on the oil’
You could pass Putera Puteri, a small Malaysian restaurant on the fringes of London’s Bayswater, with barely a second glance. I’ve done it myself, hundreds of times before. Because for years, I had an office around the corner, and would spend lunchtimes in total thrall to my gut, seeking out Singaporean cafés (Kiasu, RIP), serious Thai (Tawana, RIP), and proper Penang hokkien mee (C&R, RIP). But somehow, this jewel was missed.
And it took a recent article in the ever-excellent Vittles (subscribe at vittles.substack.com) to point me in the right direction. We are heading towards their wa Tan Hor, a soothing Cantonese noodles dish that is so blessedly simple and delicious, that we can only sit there, eating, and then swallowing.
It’s a symphony of soft, with a joyously slithery, silken texture; slices of spongy fish ball, and prawns, and carefully scored squid, and a tangle of flat, brown noodles, all in a wobbling, egg-based sauce. The curry puffs are three flaky, delicate, golden crescents made with the finest pastry. They’re stuffed with chicken and potatoes. The roticanai, which is the folded, bread-like silk covered in curry sauce, can be grilled to perfection and then dunked in fiery hot sour chicken curry sauce.
It is brightly lit like an operating theatre. The loo is just a few steps away. As you eat deep-fried chicken Satay with minced meat, you can bring your own alcohol and drink from disposable cups. Peanut sauce is chunky and full of oil. It is delicious by the teaspoon.
There’s kangkung belacan, stir-fried morning glory tossed in soy sauce, salty as sin, throbbing with shrimp paste and chillies. Karai laksa, with its rich coconut sweetness, subtle sourness, heat, and depth, is made from a thick broth. You can feel the noodles’ bounce and bite. There are more fish balls, prawns, and beansprouts mixed with bits of chicken. The charming owner catches me eating it straight from the bowl. ‘It’s OK,’ she smiles. ‘Everyone does it.’
My jacket has become soupy, my mouth is oily, and my heart beats with joy. It is my place of happiness.
About £15 per head. Putera Puteri. 179 Queensway London, W2; puteraputeri.co.uk
DRINKS: Olly’s own-label gems
Supermarkets: Take a bow. Striking the balance between offering slam-dunk crowd pleasers and riskier wines with more strident character takes guts – right now, the high street is rising to the challenge. I’d urge you to pick a less familiar bottle, which doesn’t necessarily mean a bigger spend. Try a Spanish Garnacha instead of Rioja. Rather than your regular peachy white, pick a Fernão Pires. Do you prefer Sauv Blanc? Go for an Austrian Grüner Veltliner. You’ll find your pounds will stretch further and I reckon you’ll find a few new favourites, too.
WINE OF THE WEEK The Best MarquÉs de los Rios Garnacha 2019 (14%), £8.50, Morrisons. Red as shiny as a cherry, polished with silk and spices. It is both elegant and indulgent.
Specially Selected Austrian Grüner Veltliner 2020 (12.5%), £6.99, Aldi. This is an amazing sofa drinker, as fresh and cut like kite-surfing with an apple slice.
Loved & Found Fernão Pires 2021 (12.5%), £6.99, Waitrose. It’s a fruity wine that is peach-, pineapple- and pear-intoxicating. South Africa’s bright brilliance.
Found Nerello Cappuccio 2020 (13.5%), £7, M&S. Firm, spicy splendour without resorting to heaviness – sublime with beef.
Finest Stellenbosch Pinotage 2020 (14%), £7.50, Tesco. This mysterious mix of Pinot Noir and Rioja is what you might call a “mysterious cross”! It’s a delicious red!