Tom is headed to an Indian restaurant run by a Michelin-starred chef who has a great track record
Dal muradabadi, made with pink lentils: ‘Magnificent… with an earthy, soothing depth,’ says Tom
It didn’t start well. Perhaps it’s being asked if I have a reservation, upon walking into an entirely empty Manthan, at 12.30 on a Saturday lunch. Perhaps it was a missed call or voice message asking where I am from the restaurant. In this Mayfair dining room with its elegantly decorated banquettes and bronze lotus placemats, I was seated in awe.
And yes, by this stage I’m getting a touch irate, as I order the Gewürztraminer, only to be asked if that’s a red (it’s not). It’s something that usually goes unnoticed. But today it adds up to a kind of slow death by a thousand cuts. Just like the sweetly effusive maître d’, who waved away the need for a pad. I made a mistake in the ordering process. But despite these initial misgivings (and by now, to paraphrase Wodehouse, it’s not exactly difficult to distinguish between me and a ray of sunshine), the restaurant begins to fill, and we can sit back and appreciate the cooking of Rohit Ghai, formerly of the good Jamavar and the great Gymkhana. There are no sloppy curries or gravies, but rather artful, balanced and assured cooking, from all over the subcontinent.
You can enjoy a delicious snack of buttermilk-fried chicken curled with crispy curry leaves, pink peppercorns, and a strong chilli sauce. And pyaaz kachori – garam flour croquettes of ethereal lightness – which we didn’t order (that would be the dahi ke kebab) but were delighted to eat all the same.
On chewy paratha is spread a rich, creamy bone-marrow curry, with all the bovine might. The tender, tender, and beautifully charred Sarson chicken comes with a crisp kachumber dressing. The subtropical heat of lamb osso buco, which is basically a Sri Lankan bone-in curry, gives it a rich, subtropical flavor and the all-important bone juice grunt. Dal muradabadi has a wonderful taste, with hints of sharp tamarind as well as an earthy and soothing depth.
Yet for all the undoubted skill of the cooking, and warmth of the staff, I’m not rushing to return. Mayfair is home to many high-end Indian restaurants. Ironically, Gymkhana is still the best, which Ghai made so famous. And while Manthan impresses, it doesn’t quite delight.
About £40 per head. Manthan, 49 Maddox Street London W1
DRINKS: Olly’s fine cider
Recently, I visited three cider and pear orchards in Herefordshire. Cider can taste as good as wine when made by skilled craftsmen. There is great complexity, finesse and respect for apples varieties. As for presentation, check out the range online at thefinecider.company – revolutionary. Next time you’re serving bangers and mash, pork or a cheeseboard, cider hits the bullseye.
CIDER OF THE WEEK Do It Puritan Damson & Perry 2020 (7.6%), £17.50, littlepomona.com. Joyful fragrance, fruity exuberance, this ‘summer pudding in a glass’ made my wife dance round the kitchen with delight.
Pulpt Flare (4.9%), £2.20, Tesco. You can relive the festival atmosphere with this authentically available cider.
Devon Red Sandford Orchards (4.5%), £2.25, Morrisons. It is deliciously smooth, sweet, juicy, and stunning.
Oliver’s Fine Keeved Perry 2020 (3.3%), £10, oliverscider andperry.co.uk. Light, dazzlingly delicious, this low-alcohol perry is liquid splendour – try with goat’s cheese salad.
Find & Foster Pet Nat 2020 ‘Allan’ (5.5%), £14, findand fosterfine ciders.com. The exotic multilayered work of art is set off by the faint sound of bubbles.