Tom is greeted warmly by the Vietnamese at an East London family-run newcomer’s home
East meets West meets Ealing: the ban mi baguette is ‘a perfect combination of crisp crust and airy interior, the pork filling an ode to pig
Tanvan is a Vietnamese-style restaurant located in an area of Ealing that has been recently redeveloped. It makes me happy to be a part of a family. The kitchen, which is owned by three sisters and named for their grandparents, is managed by their mother. Family photographs cover the wall, 1960s Vietnamese soul-jazz trills from the speakers, and our waitress has a charm and easy confidence that seem a physical expression of the restaurant’s succour-soaked soul.
You can find all of the traditionals. Prawn summer rolls filled with crunch, zing and vitality, the plump crustaceans pressed up against the soft rice paper like kids’ noses at a sweetshop window. Bo la lot is a dark, sticky mixture of beef and spiced pork. They are wrapped in betel leaf shawls. On the side is a vibrant chilli oil, which can be splashed with the usual Sriracha sauce and then squirted.
Cold Saigon beer is poured and we eat ban mi (Vietnamese baguette), which has a crispy crust and a light crumb interior. The filling is an ode of pig. Pâté, spread thick, then char siu pork, pork floss and slices of cinnamon-scented pork mortadella. The swine are kept under control with pickles, chillies, and large quantities of herbs.
You can get more pork in the Bun Cha Hanoi. This is pork with a buncha Hanoi. These meatballs are a mixture of vinegary and lightly spiced broths. A chewy pork belly sits on top of large quantities fresh noodles. They’re covered with crushed peanuts, fresh herbs, pickles, and other fresh ingredients. It’s as important to taste as it is texture. And there’s a glorious freshness to the cooking, all zest, fragrance and bite, things that separate good Vietnamese from the merely average.
Pho. Obviously. ‘Go for the Hanoi garlicky,’ says our lovely waitress. ‘I just had it for my lunch. It’s great.’ And it is. This broth is rich in flavor, with a depth of savouriness that tastes like knowledge, nostalgia, and slow cooking. MSG, the wonder ingredient so wrongly vilified, can be added to this broth.
You can add herbs, lime juice, peppersprouts and chili oil to your sriracha. You customise it to suit your taste, and that’s part of its allure. There are no two bowls the same. It has the perfect amount of chew and a mild garlicky taste to it. The last drop is sipped straight out of the bowl. A group of French colleagues are next door and enjoy pork belly stew. ‘C’est bon,’ murmurs one. All the others nod. ‘Oui, c’est bon.’
About £20 per head. Tanvan, 17 The Green London W5 – tanvan1951.com
DRINKS: Olly’s blowout red wines
With festivities ramping up, spending over £10 brings handsome rewards, especially with bottles from South America and Portugal. If it’s classic French or nothing, Côte Rôtie from the Rhône is my pick. Predominantly made from the spicy Syrah (Shiraz) grape, it’s often blended with a little white Viognier which dials up the fragrance into a full violet spectrum of irresistible allure. 2015 and 2016 were both stellar years, but choose a supple 2017 for drinking now – and I’d recommend decanting to maximise aromas, flavours and enjoyment.
WINE OF THE WEEK Luis Felipe Edwards LFE 900 Single Vineyard 2016 (14.5%), £14.99, Majestic. This wine is a statement wine that has the structure and impact of peppered steak. A wine of fierce excellence and spicy splendour.
Viñalba Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (14.5%), £10, Tesco. This red is full of life and feels like the best value wine. All you need to buy.
Matetic Estela Lunar Pinot Noir 2019 (13.5%), £12, M&S. Amazingly rich Pinot with great autumnal spices. This wine is a bargain-priced fine wine.
Quinta do Noval Touriga Nacional 2017 (14%), £43.50, fortnumand mason.com. Abundant festive spice. Every sip is elegant and charming. Wow!
Côte Rôtie Patrick Jasmin ‘La Giroflarie’ 2017 (13.5%), £49, yapp.co.uk. The perfume is a combination of strong power and fragrance that surges into an elegant finish. Take care of yourself.