The resident tortoises on Canouan island must have a hard time understanding what’s happening as they go about their daily ritual of sauntering at sunset.
The 1,800 year-round inhabitants of the Caribbean cracker may also be looking on in dismay at what is happening.
Not so long ago, there was no proper water supply, no secondary school, no hotel, no golf course, no possible inkling of a glitzy marina — and the very idea of an airstrip big enough to cater for Boeing 737s was preposterous.
This is Mandarin Oriental’s beach, Mark Palmer of Daily Mail says that it’s in one of the “most beautiful settings” in the world.
See the island: The tortoises of Canouan are a sight to behold. These slow-moving creatures outnumber the residents.
Now? Well, the tortoises may still outnumber the residents but Canouan (pronounced ‘ka-no-wan’) is being talked up as the ‘new Mustique’ or, crudely, the ‘island where billionaires get away from millionaires’.
It’s not just about the beaches. It has beautiful beaches, some ramshackle bars and shops, Mount Royal, which offers views over almost all of the Caribbean islands, as well as stunning hummingbirds, turtles, and other tropical fish. There is also a charming population of people that are happy to enjoy the ride.
The ride is one powered by money — and vision. The private Grenadine Estate, consisting of 1,200 acres, lies at one end. It is just three and a half miles in length. Andrea Pignataro is an Italian bond trader who also founded the software company ION Trading. The Mandarin Oriental is located here on a stunning stretch of sand that overlooks a large bay and the reef beyond.
Mark claims that the island’s inhabitants are ‘charming folk’ who accept the changes taking place on the island. Pictured here are friendly locals
With its vast balcony, our room is at the top of it all. Individual villas are also located on the estate and can be rented for thousands of pounds per week or sold at a high price.
Nearby is a charming Anglican church, which looks as if it has been transported from Blighty stone by stone — which in fact it was in the 1800s.
At the other end of the island is Dermot Desmond, the Irish billionaire and co-owner of the glitzy Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados, who has built a 120-berth, $250 million marina on Canouan’s west coast, plus a quaint-looking village modelled on Portofino in Italy.
Desmond was once a partner at the Grenadine estate, which is why the Mandarin, although a great service provider and in the most picturesque setting in the world, is somewhat reminiscent of Sandy Lane.
Between these two mega-bucks creations is the original sleepy village, where Canouans are waking up to the idea that their island is at an extraordinary crossroads — and living in hope that trickle-down economics proves a boon.
Oh, and just to add to the mix, looking down from a lush green height is the Trump Casino, a reminder of Canouan’s recent chequered history when The Donald briefly threw some money at the place, including the establishment of an 18-hole Jim Fazio-designed golf course. The course is still there but the casino is locked up — a slight embarrassment.
Pictured: Towering Mount Royal has incredible views of nearly all of the islands in St Vincent and Grenadines
This map depicts Canouan’s location to Mustique and some spots Mark visited while he was on the island.
Trump has never been mentioned. The new vibe doesn’t include Trump. That new vibe is epitomised by the opening of Soho House’s first Caribbean venture following the takeover of Tamarind Beach Hotel, and with the yet-to-be built Aman hotel on the eastern side of the island.
The Soho House venture is open to members and ‘friends’ (the latter need to pay £100 a year, which allows them to book rooms).
This house sits in Grand Bay. The village is easily accessible by foot.
The Aman project sounds less certain, with a spokesperson saying ‘nothing has been announced’. However, everyone who visits the island discusses its precise location. This includes the Mandarin-speaking young man who took me to Mount Royal and insists that he take photos of me at risk of falling to certain death drops.
‘The island is changing, which is fine by me,’ he says. ‘The mainland will be taking us more seriously in the future.’
St Vincent Island is located on the mainland. It is a bustling island compared to Canouan. As Desmond, Pignataro, and Desmond get on with their lives, it is hard to believe the heinous deals that are going on. The film has an almost Local Hero aspect, and it features a calypso instead of Dire Straits music.
‘Without Mr Pignataro the secondary school would never have been built and our children would still be living on the mainland during term-time,’ a local tells me at a bar called Seagrapes.
Canouan was originally home to Amerindians who had arrived from South America mainland. The Arawakan term cannoun is what gives it its name, which means turtle.
French colonists brought West African slaves from West Africa to plant sugarcane fields in the 1800s. After the British took control of the island, it was finally freed from British rule in 1979.
The other day we went to Shell Beach. It is on the other end of the bay. We ate lunch there.
Next, we meet Phil Jones who is a British yachtie living on the island along with his wife. He runs day trips to the Tobago Cays Marine Park, an hour’s sail away, where Pirates Of The Caribbean was filmed.
Originally a Londoner, Phil has two boats — one a 48 ft catamaran called Splendid Adventurer, the other a 42 ft powerboat called, appropriately, Living The Dream. Phil takes us aboard Splendid adventurer, and then introduces us both to their young crew. Both were born in Canouan. They are agile and balanced as they move around the yacht.
Traditionally, if I put my head underwater I end up with an ear infection and have to crawl to a doctor for antibiotics — but the water around the marine park is so inviting that I’m over the side and conversing with turtles and starfish practically before Phil has dropped anchor. And, of course, I don’t get an ear infection.
On the way back, the wind picks up and Phil comes into his own, plotting a course that gives us just enough of a soaking to make us feel as if we’re competing in the America’s Cup.
It has been a stupendous day, finishing up with dinner at a Mandarin offshoot on the beach called L’ Ance Guyac, where my wife and I congratulate each other on discovering Canouan.
All it lacks are some places to stay that won’t break the bank. That should come — or perhaps not, if Canouan really is the new Mustique.