The fire alarm is going off in the Mitato al la carte restaurant at The Royal Senses Resort & Spa in Crete, but no one is worried.

It’s been set off by a slightly larger than usual puff of smoke that’s just been released from the traditional Cretan antikristo grill at the heart of the eatery and it’s a sign that the salted lamb that’s cooking over open flames there is especially juicy tonight.

The sound quickly stops, the musician playing the Cretan lyra in the corner plucks a few chords to mimic the noise, the diners laugh, and everyone returns to eating in the golden glow of the restaurant’s lighting.

The 178-room Royal Senses Resort & Spa Curio Collection by Hilton trickles down a hillside in a sheep-strewn swathe of countryside in the centre of Crete’s north coast

The 178-room Royal Senses Resort & Spa Curio Collection by Hilton trickles down a hillside in a sheep-strewn swathe of countryside in the centre of Crete’s north coast

Pictured is the entrance to The Royal Senses. The hotel opened in June 2021 and is the first Hilton to grace the Greek islands and only the second Hilton in Greece

The entrance of The Royal Senses is shown in the picture. This hotel was opened June 20, 2021. It is only the second Hilton Hotel in Greece and the first Hilton on the Greek Islands.

This photograph showcases one of the two landing-strip-long infinity pools that feature in the Royal Senses’ sea-view pool area and some of the sun loungers, with their crash-mat-thick mattresses

This photograph showcases one of the two landing-strip-long infinity pools that feature in the Royal Senses’ sea-view pool area and some of the sun loungers, with their crash-mat-thick mattresses

I discover during my stay that the antikristo restaurant is just one of several USPs at this new hotel – which opened in June in a sheep-strewn swathe of countryside in the centre of Crete’s north coast.

It’s the first Hilton to grace the Greek islands and only the second Hilton in Greece, so its designers have gone to extra lengths to impress.

The hotel’s funicular is another talking point. The resort, which has 178 rooms, is located on the hillside. You can reach the top by taking a cable railway that runs 100m (328ft).

The spa at The Royal Senses pools out for 1,000 square metres (10,763sqft). Pictured is the pool terrace, with its own infinity pool, in-water whirlpools and Bali beds

The Royal Senses Spa covers 1,000m2 (10,763sqft). This is The Royal Senses pool terrace with infinity pool, inwater whirlpools, and Bali beds.

The pool area at The Royal Senses features two infinity pools and a dizzying selection of Bali beds, loungers, deck chairs, cuddle seats and sofas

The Royal Senses has two pools with a dizzying array of Bali loungers, deckchairs, cuddle chairs and sofas.

You can also write about the stunning sea view pool. The two pools, which are approximately a mile long and surround by an array of Bali-style loungers and beds with thick crash-mat mattresses, can be found on the landing strip.

Then there’s the spa. This spa covers 1,000m2 (10,763sq ft) and includes an outdoor terrace pool as well an indoor hydrotherapy area. Jenny, a skilled masseuse, gives me a Cretan and olive oil massage that leaves my muscles feeling as soft as a chamois.

You can find the local-twist in every part of my hotel spa treatment. All terracottas, stone, wood, rattan and rope, the décor of both my Deluxe Room and the shared areas reflects the earthiness of the hotel’s hillside setting.

The lobby at The Royal Senses (pictured) is a grand place decorated with lots of wood, stone and earthy coloured textiles to reflect the hotel’s hillside setting

The lobby at The Royal Senses (pictured) is a grand place decorated with lots of wood, stone and earthy coloured textiles to reflect the hotel’s hillside setting

Pictured is a relaxation space in between the check-in desks and the lobby bar at The Royal Senses. Many of the ceramics on the shelves are the work of local artists

The Royal Senses lobby bar and check-in desks are pictured here. The shelves feature ceramics by local artists.

The rooms at The Royal Senses are decorated with earthy bark and beige colour schemes like the rest of the hotel

The Royal Senses’ rooms feature the same earthy colors as the rest of The Royal Senses.

This shot shows the outside area of one of The Royal Senses' private pool rooms. There are nine categories of rooms at the hotel and five types come with their own pools

The outside view of one private pool room at The Royal Senses is shown in this shot. The hotel has nine types of rooms, and there are five different kinds that have their own pools.

I discovered that many furniture, lights fixtures, and ceramics were also sourced from Cretan artisans.

The Cretan-inspired food at Platia’s buffet restaurant, and in its lunchtime cafeteria, is also available. Think dishes like dakos – Crete’s answer to bruschetta – and Cretan-themed pizza with feta.

Nowhere is the Cretan influence more present than in the hotel’s second a la carte restaurant, Cretamos, though.

Pictured is one of the tables at the Cretamos a la carte eatery at The Royal Senses where some of the dishes on the menu have historical roots. The stone booth seating here looks out over the sea (file image)

This is the Cretamos a-la carte restaurant at The Royal Senses. Some of the dishes are historical. This stone booth seats looks over the ocean (file image).

This image shows a dish from the Cretamos al la carte at The Royal Senses. Dishes here include petimezi-glazed pork – a dish with origins that can be traced back to Byzantine times

The image below shows a Cretamos al-la carte dish at The Royal Senses. Dishes here include petimezi-glazed pork – a dish with origins that can be traced back to Byzantine times

This photograph showcases Platia, the lunch restaurant at The Royal Senses that’s been designed to resemble a Greek village square. The menu features dishes like dakos – Cretan bruschetta – and Cretan pizza with feta

This photograph showcases Platia, the lunch restaurant at The Royal Senses that’s been designed to resemble a Greek village square. The menu features dishes like dakos – Cretan bruschetta – and Cretan pizza with feta

The swanky bar at The Royal Senses. Sarah recommends the Cretan Moschato Spinas white wine

The Royal Senses has a chic bar. Sarah recommends the Cretan Moschato Spinas white wine

Pictured is the antikristo grill in the centre of the Mitato a la carte restaurant at The Royal Senses. Antikristo cooking involves slow-cooking salted lamb over open flames

The Antikristo Grill is located at the Mitato a la carte Restaurant of The Royal Senses. Antikristo cooking involves slow-cooking salted lamb over open flames

The Byzantine era is the origin of some dishes, such as the petimezi-glazed meat. The talented chefs Stelios & Moses bring them back to life with modern elements such as infused oils and flavoured crumb.

The slightly modernized beef fillet, with pickled apple and parsnip purée, is a favorite of mine. It’s served in a generous portion that I find just as appealing as its presentation.

If the thought of being stuck on a hillside puts you off this place, don’t worry. The hotel has a wow-worthy newly renovated sister resort called The Royal Blue that’s less than 300 metres (984ft) away and right on the water’s edge. 

Every half an hour, shuttle buses provide free transportation between the hotels.

Royal Senses guests can make full use of the facilities at Royal Blue, and they should – I certainly do.

The hotel’s statement saltwater pool is worth a visit in itself. It’s lake sized, deep enough to sink a double-decker bus, and you can hear the waves crashing a few feet away as you swim. My fingertips never crimp as I swim here.

Another reason to visit the adult-only bar is its little beachfront garden with wooden swing chairs and whitewashed roof. One evening, I sit down here with a glass of Cretan Moschato Spinas wine as I watch the sun set and the sky turn black.

Pictured is The Royal Blue – sister hotel to The Royal Senses. The hotels have been designed to complement each other but be completely different in terms of looks and style

Pictured is The Royal Blue – sister hotel to The Royal Senses. Both hotels were designed to be complementary, but completely separate in style and looks.

This shot shows the entrance to the huge saltwater pool at The Royal Senses’ stunning sister hotel Royal Blue. The moment you step off the steps, you can’t touch the floor of this pool

This shot shows the entrance to the huge saltwater pool at The Royal Senses’ stunning sister hotel Royal Blue. The moment you step off the steps, you can’t touch the floor of this pool 

Guests at The Royal Senses can catch the shuttle bus or walk down to The Royal Blue to use the hotel’s private beach (pictured), which is sheltered by an arm of rocks

Guests at The Royal Senses can catch the shuttle bus or walk down to The Royal Blue to use the hotel’s private beach (pictured), which is sheltered by an arm of rocks 

Just like The Royal Senses, the Royal Blue has a selection of stunning private pool rooms (pictured). Some of them look out over the sea

Like The Royal Senses (pictured), the Royal Blue also offers a variety of private pools. Some look over the ocean.

Then there’s the hotel’s beach. 

To make it safe to swim, a protective arm of rocks is placed around the beach sand. The Bali loungers and beds come equipped with buttons that can be pressed for waiter service.

I’m always a bit ginger about pushing buttons like this, worried about looking lazy. There’s no judgement from the staff at Royal Blue, though.

Each member of this team has a smile on their face. Cretan hospitality is exemplified by them.

The rooms, with their lullaby-soothing white and pebble colour schemes, are special, too, and I’d recommend booking a twin-centre trip that includes both hotels so you can experience the very intentional yin and yang of the two.

It’s also worth coming down here for an additional spa treatment. 

As with The Royal Senses treatment menu, the therapies reflect the hotel’s setting. I felt as loose as an unmanned marionette after the hot seashell massage. 

FIVE PLACES TO EXPLORE WHEN YOU STAY AT THE ROYAL SENSES RESORT & SPA AND THE ROYAL BLUE

Rethymno

Either take a 20-minute taxi ride or catch the bus from in front of the Iberostar Creta Marine, a 10-minute walk from The Royal Senses, and you can visit Crete’s third largest city. Take a stroll through the Old Town and visit the leather, linen and pottery shops. Enjoy a drink or dinner at the harbourside.

Panormo

The snoozy, fishing village Panormo can be reached by taxi or within a 40 minute walk from The Royal Senses. You can stroll the streets and then relax on the two sandy beaches. After that, you will find a place in one of the tavernas by the water for traditional Greek food.

Melidoni

It is possible to trace the history of this inland village back to at least 14 centuries ago. You can wind your way through its narrow lanes to reach the olive oil plant. To get here you can catch the ‘Little Train’ from a stop at the bottom of the hill where The Royal Senses is located. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays the trips are available.

Margarites

Margarites, one of the largest centres for traditional Greek pottery, is open to all. You can catch the Little Train – mentioned above – here, too. You can catch the Little Train on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

The Palace of Knossos

The largest Bronze Age archaeological site in Crete is an hour’s drive east from The Royal Senses Resort & Spa. According to legend, the ruins were once home to the half-bull Minotaur monstrous.