In 2011, Alastair Humphreys, a British adventurer, coined the term “microadventure”. Little did he realize that his new neologism would become a mini-expedition. The idea that you could launch expeditions directly from your door, and not to the North Pole, inspired many people to go on short, unique trips. These included self-propulsion combined with accommodation below-the-stars.
According to the inventor of microadventure “a microadventure is an adventure that’s short, simple and local. It’s also cheap.”
While the short, fun trip I’m describing here was not one of these things, in my opinion it was still an adventure because it used self-propulsion (thanks to folding bikes) and had tiny accommodations on a misty moorland.
Josh enjoying his starter with burnt leeks. Carlton enjoyed a terrine consisting of confit duck, chicken and mushrooms
GWR Pullman Crew members are selected for their sunshine dispositions
This trip was costly. My globetrotting son, who imported a Chinese bike from China and rode it back to the UK 14,000 kms after returning from China), travelled with me by rail first class from London to Devon using Great Western Railway’s Pullman Service – England’s last dining car.
They certainly weren’t sniffy when they were thrown by two guys boarding on bikes with a lot of bike bags. They were not sniffy. In fact, they were drawn to the bicycle paraphernalia that was stacked up at Paddington’s Station 2.
GWR’s Pullman service is regaining its footing after an extended, pandemic-shaped hiatus. This may explain why there was such a warm reception.
This was probably because Pullman crewmembers are known for being sunny. Are two grubby-biked oiks getting on an elite posh-nosh service train? It’s not a problem.
Our train tickets were for the evening train to Penzance. We would take the late night train to Newton Abbot. Then it was a 10-mile climb uphill to Saddle Tor where we would set up our two-man tent. Wild camping on Dartmoor is permitted, unlike in England. Next day, we’d set up camp and return to Paddington for lunchtime Pullman.
GWR Pullman’s set menu in front of Carlton as Josh looks out over the scenic Exe estuary
Although we were traveling light, it was still awkward. We retreated to Platform 2 to unload our luggage and fold the bikes. The train arrived at the station.
We were overlooked by the statue of Paddington bear and our crew instructed us to fit bikes and bags between first-class seats.
Sorted. This was the beginning of luxury. Do you want a drink? What deposits do Paddington of Peru’s family leave among the trees?
Josh enjoying the second curry of his trip – Carlton requested the confit de duck
On the left is the GWR Pullman Chocolate velvet mousse. The London Paddington Bear statue is shown right.
A return first-class ticket from London to Newton Abbot costs about £180
Although I normally ask for a tonic and gin, with the prospect of a steep climb at 10 pm, I decided instead to order sparkling water. I sipped it slowly as I watched the train accelerate.
Famously, the historic main line of The Great Western Railway is fast. It was built in 1835 by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, a 29-year old civil engineer genius. Six minutes after departing Paddington the train accelerates to 125 mph through Reading.
The suburbs were blurred beyond the windows. Now, focus shifts to the menu and promises of delicious food.
As a starter, I had the burnt leeks. This is not a problem, as the main course description was clear. A romesco dressing was used to keep the caramelised vegetables together. Grilled courgettes were also included. Josh was the vegan who chose this starter.
There and back, he had exactly the same selections. The entire menu was available to me.
There were also starters: confit of chicken with duck, flaky smoke trout and beetroot wedges.
For my main dish, I chose the pan-fried cod. Josh had his first butternut squash or coconut curry. The confit duck leg with ratatouille was my third main course choice.
After a long and tiring day, I decided to indulge in the most caloric dessert of all: a delicious Kingston blackpear tart with prunes. The vegan dessert was served with dairy-free custard, which I found to be quite good. Josh also enjoyed it. As it turned out, twice. It was also served with a cherry compote and a chocolate mousse.
Josh rides close to tracks on the Haytor Granite Transmway. It was built in 1820 and used to transport granite from Haytor Down Quarry, Dartmoor (Devon), to the Stover Canal. These tracks were once used to guide horse-drawn wagons.
Carlton and Josh met at Newton Abbot around 10 p.m. They cycled via country lanes to Dartmoor (pictured).
GWR’s Pullman was long known for its silver service dinners. This is food that’s guided to the GWR monogrammed plate using deftly-handled spoons, and vegetables which are slid off silver platters. The plated service of today is the norm. The food, while still exquisite and elegant, is now served on plates.
Pullman’s famed steaks are yet to return. Although traditionalists might grumble, the fact that Pullman was able to provide any quality dining during difficult times shows that they are much beloved.
There are posher trains, of course, such as the super-deluxe Belmond British Pullman, but that’s a £400-per-seat special – GWR’s Pullman is a scheduled service.
Unconventional camping sunset beside Saddle Tor. Carlton and Josh found their way to this spot using the Hammerhead Karoo 2 navigation tool
Josh ascends onto Dartmoor, after having spent the night wild camping. Carlton says that microadventures are a favorite of his, particularly luxurious.
Operating a Pullman dining service is part of FirstGroup’s GWR franchise agreement with the government, and although the company won’t admit this (yes, I asked), the service – even with £30-per-head meals and £21 bottles of wine – runs at a loss.
As we arrived at Newton Abbot station, 10pm, I was not thinking about train operating company economics. We reassembled our meals on wheels, snipped on our bags and switched to night mode on our handlebar-mounted navigation devices so that it could direct us through dark country roads to Dartmoor.
Fast food fuelled, we slept for two hours before finally falling asleep. We still had our return trip to look forward too, which was a gloriously scenic stretch of track that runs between Dawlish and Exminster via Exe estuary.
Microadventures are my favorite, even the luxurious.
Travel Facts
GWR provides a Pullman Dining Car on twelve services along two routes. The GWR service can be pictured in Reading (stock photo)
GWR provides a Pullman restaurant car for 12 routes, London to Penzance or London to Swansea. First-class tickets to a Pullman service that includes Pullman dining are not valid for the restaurant service. These must be purchased separately, online or by telephone, at least two weeks before. You can pay for the meal on board. Pullman can be booked by standard class but they cannot access it. It is possible to upgrade to first-class for the cost of a main and starter, however there are no guarantees of availability.
A return first-class ticket from London to Newton Abbot costs about £180. A two-course Pullman meal costs £25 with £5 for dessert or the cheese course; bottled water is free; alcoholic drinks are extra.
Carlton was on a Brompton folding cycle. Josh rode a Momentum folding bicycle, not the one he brought back from China. The Robens tent was used for their sleeping arrangements, which included country-lane navigation provided by Hammerhead Karoo. Full-size bicycles can be carried on GWR trains, but it is possible.
For more information visit www.gwr.com/travelling-with-us/pullman-dining. You can check availability with GWR’s social media teams via WhatsApp at 07890 608043.
A return first-class ticket from London to Newton Abbot costs about £180. A two-course Pullman meal costs £25 with £5 for dessert or the cheese course; bottled water is free; alcoholic drinks are extra