Tom discovers décor can be deceiving as he heads to the coast for home-cooked Italian
‘Handheld heaven’: roasted mutton on skewers (or arrosticini), the Abruzzan speciality that gives the restaurant its name
At first glance, Rostick seems like your typical small-town British Italian restaurant, the sort of much-loved local where spaghetti comes with Bolognese, grissini are sealed in plastic and no dinner’s complete without a steak Diane and chips. Even though the room is lime-green with neon lighting and a ceiling covered in twigs, appearances are deceiving.
Rostick is one such place, which combines both the traditional and the regional. Lorenzo, the chef-proprietor, is our host. He prepares polpette from pork, beef and porcini mushrooms. They are plump and tender and covered in a tomato sauce. The mozzarella cheese blankets them in thick slices.
Three pieces of toast bread are also a good idea, to help you clean up any excess Italian-American food.
Then a terracotta jug containing a dozen arrosticini, barbecued mutton on a skewer, a speciality of Abruzzo, Lorenzo’s home region. Italian sheep is used. It’s cooked over charcoal until it becomes tender and chewy. Add a good dollop of his fierce, home-made chilli sauce and you’re in handheld heaven. I’d happily nail a dozen more of these, but there’s a turbot to come, a beast, delivered fresh this morning, and brought out for a pre-cooking gawp. Eastbourne definitely has its advantages. This turbot was delivered fresh this morning.
Half an hour later it arrives, exquisitely cooked. The flesh is pulled from the bone with little resistance. It’s cut in large, translucent chunks. Seriously, it’s up there with Scott’s, Wiltons or Bentley’s. And at a mere £30, about a third of their price too. Lorenzo takes great pride in his fish. You can see why. We will be adding more seafood to the menu next time.
There’s more pasta. I recommend the Paccheri with sausage, and some broccoli. But for now, a break, and an icy Dirty Martini because my friends Jonathan and Janine (who I’m here with) say they mix a mean one, and they do. It’s the sort of small, family-owned place where nothing is too much trouble, and everything is done with a grin. Lorenzo is an excellent cook. The background is filled with the enchanting sounds of Italian radio. It’s a long day ahead.
About £25 a head. Rostick Restaurant, 209 Terminus Road Eastbourne. rostick.uk
DRINKS: Olly’s classics on a budget
The world of classic wine really belongs to France, with the Champagne and Bordeaux regions worthy of high praise – and lofty price tags. Supermarket own-label bottles can save you money, or try wine from vineyards close to famous names – Haut Poitou Sauvignon Blanc instead of Sancerre, for instance. Pick from France’s other gems, such as Beaujolais or the Rhône for reds, and your cash soars even further.
WINE OF THE WEEK Chiroubles La Scandaleuse Domaine Métrat 2019 (13%), £12.50, thewinesociety.com. It is light and delicate, but it has a rich texture. The future standard.
Pierre Sauvion Haut-Poitou Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (12.5%), £8.99, Majestic. It is as clear and vibrant as whitecurrants trapped inside a whistle.
M&S Classics Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV (12%), £10. Fizz to my dreams. This wine is a perfect peach and has been aged in the bottle for 18 years.
Cap Royal Bordeaux Supérieur 2019 (13.5%), £10, Tesco. This savoury favorite is as earthy and fragrant as truffles. Enjoy it with a roast, or a nibble of cheddar.
Le Verdier Cairanne 2019 (14.5%), £10, Morrisons. It is rich and creamy, aromatic, strong, and warm. Think budget Châteauneuf-du-Pape.