Zaragoza boasts the highest number of bars per capita in Spain. Yet, as raucous as this may sound, the capital of the region of Aragon — roughly halfway between Barcelona and Madrid — is nothing of the sort.
Many are sophisticated drinking spots, hidden away along labyrinthine lanes and offering delicious tapas.
There are also two fine cathedrals, a Moorish castle, art museums — and no tourist hordes.
Zaragoza offers many activities, such as wandering through art museums or dropping by elegant drinking establishments.
Stay where you want
Hispania Hotel
Its entrance may be nondescript — hidden beneath a colonnaded walkway by a tram stop — but this homely hotel is brilliantly located by Mercado Central (Central Market) and the main city square, Plaza del Pilar. The staff is friendly and the rooms are clean and well-priced. Breakfasts are £4.60 extra. Doubles from £39 (hotelhispania.com)
NH Ciudad de Zaragoza
This modern, sleek hotel is located next to Puente de Santiago (Santiago Bridge). It offers rooms that have stunning views over the River Ebro or the Basilica del Pilar. It’s a minimalist affair, and there’s a cosy lobby bar. It’s worth paying £10 extra for a better view. Doubles from £49 (nh-hotels.com).
Pictured above is the Puente de Santiago, or Santiago Bridge. It sits right next to the modern NH Ciudad de Zaragoza.
Hotel Inca
This boutique hotel is on a quiet lane 100 metres from Plaza del Pilar and a moment’s stroll from the Church of Santa Isabel. Modern art is used to refresh the rooms. Design by the renowned Spanish company Alfaro-Manrique. Doubles from £42 (hotelincazaragoza.com)
Hotel Pilar Plaza
This room overlooks Basilica del Pilar and is ideal if you are looking to be right in the middle of everything. You can pay an extra £10 or so for a room facing the basilica, or opt for one of the fancy ‘superior interior hot tub’ rooms for £30 more. Doubles from £40 (hotelpilarplaza.es).
Things to do and see
Moorish masterpiece
The Palace of Aljaferia, pictured above, predates Granada’s Alhambra and Seville’s Alcazar
It dates back to 11th-century. The Palace of Aljaferia has its towers, turrets, and high stone wall. It predates Granada’s Alhambra and Seville’s Alcazar. The courtyard is adorned with orange trees and plaster reliefs made in Arab design. For a chance to see the place, it is necessary that you book in advance. Entrance costs £4.20 — call +34 976 28 96 83.
Amazing basilica
Legend says that Mary, the Virgin of Mary, appeared to St James The Greater on the Basilica del Pilar. The extraordinary cathedral, built around the 17th and 18th centuries, is free to visit (catedraldezaragoza.es).
It’s free to visit the extraordinary Basilica del Pilar (pictured), which was built around the 17th and 18th centuries
Towers and tapestries
The other famous Christian place of worship is the ‘Catedral de San Salvador’, which is home to a collection of French and Flemish tapestries.
A £5.90 ticket also gives you a ride up one of the neighbouring basilica’s towers (catedraldezaragoza.es).
Goya
Museo Goya can be found just outside Plaza del Pilar. This museum houses 75 works by Francisco de Goya (18th and 19th centuries Spanish artist), including vivid etchings that depict bullfights, tavern scenes, and other prominent Spanish imagery. Entrance costs £5.10 (museogoya.ibercaja.es).
Places to eat
Bodegas Almau
Dine at Bodegas Almau, pictured, which has a charming interior lined with wine bottles. Image courtesy Creative Commons
El Fuelle restaurant in Zaragoza. While in the city, try tapas or tender roast lamb, an Aragon speciality
Many of the best restaurants are in the Old Town’s popular El Tubo area.
Bodegas Almau, also known as Bodegasalmau.es, dates back to 1870 and features a beautiful interior with wine bottles. There is also a courtyard that has barrel tables.
At speed, you can enjoy delicious tapas that include cheeses and olives as well as Iberico hams, Iberico sweet anchovies and chorizo. It costs about £30 for eight dishes with a bottle of wine.
La Ternasca
Bodegas Almau can be found next to La Ternasca (laternasca.com), a busy Aragon restaurant that specialises in roast lamb.
A perfectly cooked portion with potatoes and roasted peppers costs £15. You can also order steaming chorizo and tomato salads, or chicken fritters with oyster glaze. A meal for two with wine costs about £40.
El Champi
El Champi can also be found in El Tubo. It offers a low-cost tapas restaurant that serves small beer, chilled canas, as well as regional and local wines. Delicious. A drink and tapas cost £3.50.
Cibeles
Cibeles in Old Town is an excellent spot to have a breakfast with tortillas, crepes, or tomato toasties. A slice of tortilla and a coffee is £3.
The exterior of Mercado Central, which houses stalls that offer cured meats, cheeses, fresh fruit and vegetables
Mercado Central
Most of this old central market (mercadocentralzaragoza.com) with a wrought iron roof comprises stalls with cured meats, cheeses, fresh fruit and vegetables.
A couple of bars offering olives, anchovies or tortillas are located in the middle. It costs about £4 for a beer and tapas.
What do you need to know?
Visitors with double jabbed heads are welcomed in Zaragoza, provided they have proof of their vaccinations. Pictured to the centre-right is the city’s ‘Catedral de San Salvador’
A return ticket from Stansted to Zaragoza costs from £9.50 (ryanair.com). Airport-to-city buses cost £1.60 and take 45 minutes. Fill out a Spanish health control form before you go (spth.gob.es). Visitors who are double-jabbed must show proof that they have been immunized.
Except when eating, visitors should use face masks (mscbs.gob.es). You must book a lateral flow test to be taken before day two of returning and complete the UK’s Passenger Locator Form, too (gov.uk).