On November 25, five years to the day since Fidel Castro’s death, I was sitting in the garden of Eclectico, a restaurant in Havana’s elegant neighbourhood of Vedado. On either side of streets, there were broken sidewalks and pavements that had been paved over by Jaguey tree roots.
Listening to the singer Haydee Milanes perform a ballad, I sipped on a mojito, Cuba’s cocktail of mint, rum and lime.
The best way to enjoy a Cuban evening is now almost impossible because Covid restrictions have shut down all venues, and suppressed musicians who make Havana’s music.
A view of Havana’s elegant neighbourhood of Vedado, where pavements are broken by the roots of Jaguey trees
Cubans have been affected by the pandemic, although a feeling is slowly coming back to normalcy. Cuba’s remarkable recovery has been made possible by the extraordinary feat of developing its own Covid vaccines: Soberana 02 & Abdala. The country is considered the safest in the Caribbean because it has more than 80 percent coverage.
However, the economy collapsed two years ago after it was without tourists. As the economy suffered from growing shortages, last summer protests broke out.
As international travel picks up, foreign currency visitors are welcomed. Here are some tips to maximize your trip.
BEST BEACH
Striking: The 12-mile Varadero beach, pictured above, is one of the world’s best rivieras
On Varadero’s white sandy beaches, a cart sells souvenirs
Varadero, a 12-mile strip of white sand that cuts north into the Florida Straits, is one of the world’s best rivieras.
There are many hotels within easy reach of Havana, including some that offer all-inclusive options.
Here’s how to get it done: Seven nights at the four-star Royalton Hicacos including flights from £900 pp (tui.co.uk).
LOCAL FAVOURITE
The sunny and self-contained bay of Playa Jibacoa, pictured, is a popular escape both for tourists and Havanans
Playa Jibacoa is located in an isolated bay with a sun-filled, self-contained area beneath a rock outcrop that looks north to the Florida Keys.
It’s a popular escape both for tourists and those who live in Havana, being just an hour from the city.
Enjoy stunning sunsets and great hotels with sea views.
Here’s how to get it done: Seven nights at the four-star Memories Jibacoa Hotel including Manchester flights from £629 pp (tui.co.uk).
KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY
Iberostar, a Spanish-owned hotel chain, operates numerous of the most luxurious hotels in Cuba. They strive to make parents’ vacations stress-free. Almost all of its properties have interlocking rooms, water parks and ‘star camps’ to entertain children. Iberostar Selection Varadero is the best.
Here’s how to get it done: A week’s all-inclusive at Iberostar Selection Varadero for a family of four with two children under 12 from £3,739 (firstchoice.co.uk).
ROMANTIC RETREAT
For an adults-only hotel, try Mystique Casa Perla, which is on the edge of Varadero’s charming little town, making it easier to mix with locals. Drop by at a neighbourhood bar and make sure you eat at the excellent Salsa Suárez restaurant (Calle 31, No 103).
Here’s how to get it done: A week in January is from £575 pp excluding flights, which start at £279 pp return in January from tui.co.uk; for a package try cubadirect.co.uk.
GREAT FOR GOLF
Varadero boasts a magnificent 18-hole course that offers stunning views of the coastline. The course is located in the grounds of Xanadu. This old estate was a vacation home for Irenee du Pont, an American businessman.
This hotel might be struggling financially, but its charm is evident and it commands one the best locations on the beach.
Golf is available to all guests. Excellent Santiago de Cuba 11-year old rum is served at the roof bar.
Here’s how to get it done: Doubles at Xanadu from £195 including half-board and golf (varaderogolfclub.com).
CITY AND SURF
Staying for just a few nights in Havana is becoming more popular before you head to Cuba’s beaches.
Havana is home to many musicians who perform on the streets. Tourists will be amazed at the energy of Havana’s capital and its addictive nature.
A growing number of people choose to spend a few nights in Havana, before going to the beach. Although parts of Havana may seem ruined, the city is full of energy and an addictive personality.
If you would really like to get under Havana’s skin, try one of the new and luxurious homestays such as Gardens (gardenshavana.com).
Here’s how to get it done: Cuba Private Travel offers Gardens for three nights at the Royalton Varadero from £1,660 pp with transfers but not flights (cubaprivatetravel.com).
ROAD TRIP ADVENTURE
Havana is a riot of color: Driving. On a road trip of the island, always drive during daylight hours to avoid potholes, horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians
The back roads between the island’s keys and beaches is where you really see Cuba: rusting railroad tracks, farmers driving oxen and smartly turned out children in communist ‘young pioneer’ uniforms.
It’s perfectly safe and a fantastic adventure but always drive during daylight hours to avoid potholes, horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians.
Here’s how to get it done: A ten-day Trailblazer Cuba self-drive holiday from £2,290 pp including flights, excursions and places to stay.
If you prefer not to drive, guided tours are also available (journeylatinamerica.co.uk).
SCINTILLATING SEEFOOD
Pictured is a pier in Cayo Guillermo. Head to the nearby Cayo Guillermo Resort, by Kempinski, which overlooks one of the finest stretches of sand in all of Cuba
There is a new beach resort that is about to sweep all others aside: Kempinski’s Cayo Guillermo Resort, which launched last week.
You pay a la carte for food and drinks — the grilled snapper is superb — and this spot overlooks one of the finest stretches of sand in all of Cuba.
The beach, Playa Pilar, is named after Ernest Hemingway’s marlin-fighting boat.
Here’s how to get it done: Seven nights from £1,415 B&B (kempinski.com); flights extra.
TRADITIONAL TRINIDAD
Trinidad, pictured, is the most reminiscent of colonial times in Cuba, with cobbled streets and Spanish-era housing
Try Trinidad instead if you’ve been to Havana already and have visited the northern beaches. Pictured is the region’s Playa Ancon
Try Trinidad instead if you’ve been to Havana already and have seen the northern beaches.
With cobbled streets, Spanish-era homes and cobbled streets, the southern part of town is most representative of Cuba’s colonial past.
It is also home to Cuba’s best cocktail, the Canchanchara, which uses aguardiente (firewater).
Memories of slavery offer sharp edges to the town’s chocolate-box appeal. This is an amazing place, with Playa Ancon as its beach and waterfall-cut mountains where natural pools can be found.
Here’s how to get it done: Stay at the local Iberostar hotel, the family-friendly Heritage Grand Trinidad; a week-long stay with tours from £1,590 pp (cubaprivatetravel.com).
SAIL AWAY
A catamaran can be used to cruise along the coast of the Southern Coast from Cienfuegos (a French-influenced port) to Cayo Largo, and then back over the course a full week.
Boats that provide trips are large (83 feet) and very comfortable. Four double rooms and two singles are available in each of the four hulls. You can swim in isolated coves and they are often under sail or powered by motor.
Here’s how to get it done: Book the entire boat for a week with a skipper from £4,490 (wildcuba.com).
EXPLORE THE EST
Visit the Baracoa, the Spanish colony that was founded by the Spanish on the east coast.
Local man smoking a Cuban Cigar on Havana’s streets. Air France has return flights from Heathrow to Havana via Paris from £343 return in May
Cuba measures 777 miles. There are many other worlds in Cuba’s east, which is where most of the independence wars took place and also where the revolution started.
This region has spectacular places such as Baracoa, where the Spanish made their first colony, and Cuba’s second city of Santiago. It is well worth it if you have enough time.
Here’s how to get it done: 15-day tours with hotels but excluding flights from £4,750 pp (steppestravel.com).
ISLAND DELIGHTS
Off Cuba’s southern coast, Los Jardines de la Reina comprises a series of delightful mangrove islands.
For years they have been a popular choice for fly-fishermen and divers. But you also can book an Avalon Outdoors trip, which provides eco holidays such as snorkelling and kayaking. They offer a place to stay on one of the boats.
Here’s how to get it done: Seven nights onboard with six days of activities costs from £1,450 pp excluding international flights (avalonoutdoor.com).
BREEZE THRU
Trailfinders will take you on a 1-week Cuba tour. You’ll also be able to enjoy rum tastings with Vinales locals (pictured).
This one-week island tour is for those who are short on time. It takes you to some of the most important sights. You can cycle through Havana’s streets, relax on Santa Larga beach, and then enjoy classic cocktails with Vinales locals. The group tour includes a guide.
Here’s how to get it done: Seven nights, including your activities and flights, from £1,179 pp (trailfinders.com).
SPLASH OUT
Cuba Private Travel offers a Cuba tour that will take you to Havana, Trinidad, Baracoa, and Santiago. (pictured above).
Flying is the best way to go if you don’t have any money and want to explore all of America.
A 16-seat twin prop will pick you up in Cancun. Then, fly to Havana. From there, to Trinidad and Baracoa. Then relax at Kempinski’s resort on Playa Pilar.
Here’s how to get it done: The price is from £8,550 pp, but you will need eight couples prepared to chip in (cubaprivatetravel.com).
- Note on flights: Air France has return flights from Heathrow to Havana via Paris from £343 return in May (airfrance.co.uk). Tui has direct return flights from Manchester to Varadero from £279 this month (tui.co.uk). Virgin Atlantic’s twice-weekly flights from Heathrow to Havana are due to resume later in the year but a date has not been set yet (virginatlantic.com).